2019 trip underway

Some of the walkers on the first morning in Ho Chi Minh City at 6am.

Well the trip is underway and here are some of the first photos from day 1. I am afraid my camera stopped working yesterday and a new one is needing to be purchased when we can find some time.  Hopefully I can post a lot more photographs after tomorrow to show you how things are going.  In the meantime, here are just some from my phone that give you a glimpse of what we have been doing.  Many more to come!!

All going well and the group is already working well together.

Dancing in the park with the locals

Enjoying a great Vietnamese dinner

Changi: Not just the name of an airport

Image above: Prisoners of War in Changi Prisoner of War camp in 1942.

On the way to Vietnam we have a two hour stop-over in Singapore. However we do not leave the Airport called Changi. Changi Airport is recognised as one of the best airports in the world, with accommodation, bars, pools, shops etc.

However there is more to the name that you should know as young historians. 



Two hours is not enough time to go into Singapore but certainly enough time for us to contemplate the plight of the Australians captured in Singapore by the Japanese in 1942 and as a result spent the rest of the war, until 1945 in the Changi prison (POW Camp) or elsewhere.  



The name Changi is synonymous with the suffering of Australian prisoners of the Japanese during the Second World War. This is ironic, since for most of the war in the Pacific Changi was, in reality, one of the most benign of the Japanese prisoner-of-war camps; its privations were relatively minor compared to those of others, particularly those on the Burma–Thailand railway.
                                                   https://www.awm.gov.au/articles/encyclopedia/pow/changi

Sadly many of those captured were sent from Changi between 1942-45 to work, and for many die on the infamous Burma Railway and other locations under the control of the Japanese. 

I
mage above: Three prisoners at Shimo Songkurai in 1943 suffer the effects of malnutrition. The photograph was one of the last to be taken by George Aspinall on the camera he smuggled up to the Thai–Burma railway from Changi.

I recommend that you read as much as you can about the Fall of Singapore and the experiences of the Australians in the Changi POW camp and on the Burma Railway to get a feel for that important time in Australia's military history. A time of great significance and heated controversy - why a controversy? 

We can talk about it when we have two hours to kill in the airport, a luxurious place, a very different experience to that of Australians in Singapore in 1942-45.

 While talking about Changi, check out the Changi POW Artwork of Des Bettany

Des Bettany was a survivor of being a POW at Changi, and after the war became an art teacher at Whyalla. He was to finish his working life as the Principal of the South Australian School of Art in Adelaide. The images he created are fascinating and a real insight into the time. 

Every place is different - we should know the differences

Following on from the posting related to the language of Vietnam I thought it important to do a posting on the culture of Vietnam – often what is unseen! Culture is very subtle and goes way beyond the physical aspect we often see, such a food and clothing. I really think it is important that you have a look at these sites that provide excellent information on the customs and cultural norms of Vietnam (which differ even from North to South Vietnam). It is important that we do not offend out of ignorance of the different cultural norms of a country we are visiting.

The Vietnam Airline video is worth looking at to get a feel for the culture.

Cultural Crossing is another great site to get an idea of the more subtle, unseen to the visitor aspects of the culture.

Other sites you should look at are:

http://www.commisceo-global.com/country-guides/vietnam-guide

https://ethnomed.org/culture/vietnamese/vietnamese-cultural-profile

Just a few words go a long way!

Have a go!

It is important that when we are inter-acting with the Vietnamese community that we can speak some of the language - just some to show that we are trying to engage with the culture of Vietnam.  As well as the health and safety aspect of being able to communicate with those around us, it is in the spirit of the trip that you try to learn some very basic phrases such as the following:

Hello.
Chào. (jow)

Please.
Làm ơn cho tôi. (lam uhhn jaw thoye)

Thank you.
Cảm ơn. (gam uhhn)

Yes.
Vâng (affirmative). (vuhng); Dạ (affirmative, respectful) (ya'a) ; Đúng (correct) (duhn)

No.
Không. (kohng)

Goodbye.
Chào. (jow)

Do you speak English?
Biết nói tiếng Anh không? (bee-IT noh-Y thee-IHNG ayng kohng)

Help!
Cứu (tôi) với! (gih-OO (thoy) vuh-y!)

I don't understand.
Tôi không hiểu. (thoy kohng hee-oh)

Where is the toilet?
Cầu tiêu ở đâu? (goh thee-oh uh duh-oh)

I am sure those on the trip with a real feel for languages will go even further than these basic phrases/word.  

The following two videos will also help you negotiate talking some of the Vietnamese language.  Please have a go! I certainly struggle with the language but always try when in Vietnam to to say a few words, such as  thank you etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol-SxJgOSQs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deettRsJZOg

Feel free to find other on-line videos that help you to speak Vietnamese

Some more words and pronunciations - plus reasons for learning the phrase/word

Hello – Xin chao (sin chow) and Goodbye – Tam Biet (tam byet)

This is the best introductory and a polite ending to any conversation. Not only that, when partnered with a gentle bow, this may be a way to show respect or gratitude to the locals.

My name is – Toi la (toy la)

This always come in handy when you just arrived and about to take your reserved room. And when you are meeting someone for the first time, they would be impressed that you have introduced yourself in Vietnamese language.

Thank you – Xin Cam on (sin gahm un)

If there is one word you should always remember when you are in Vietnam, it is how to say ‘thank you’. When you are using the Vietnamese language when thanking someone from the local, it more felt and appreciated.

Yes – Vang (vung) and No – Khong (khome)

There may also be instances when a local understands a bit of English language but find it difficult to speak. Thus, when you ask something and they say one of these words, you now know the answer to your question.

Excuse me/Sorry – Xin loi (sin loy)

This is very useful when you want to catch someone’s attention or have done something wrong and would want to apologize. Either way, just like ‘Aloha’ in Hawaii, make sure that you use the word in a correct manner.

Can you help me? – Ban giup toi duoc khong? (ban zoop thoy duc khom)

This is the golden word for many of the travellers who’s lost in a foreign land. Make sure that before you even land in the airport of Vietnam, you have memorized that phrase. This phrase never failed to be a life saver for any tourist in Vietnam.

Good – Tot (thote) and Bad – Khong tot (khome thote)

What better else to know if you have done something wrong than asking them yourself. This is also useful when you are uncertain on what to do and asks an assistance from a local.

How much? – Bao nhieu (bow nyew)

Vietnam is not only rich in majestic scenery but it also home of colorful fabrics and various handicrafts which is always a good souvenir.

Hotel – Khack San (khack san)

When you are having difficulty to find your hotel, just say this magic word along with the name of the hotel to the taxi cab driver and you’ll be on your way.

Let's do some geography of Vietnam - what does it look like?

 

Image above: Vietnam in Google Maps and the amazing Street View capacity of Google Maps   https://www.google.com.au/maps/@17.0650985,105.637318,6z

Knowing without going

What does this place we are visiting look like? The wonders of spatial technology allow us to have a look at a place in amazing details before we ever go there. I am sure all of you use Google Maps (https://www.google.com.au/maps/@17.0650985,105.637318,6z) all the time and know about the Street View tool that allows you to have a 360 degree look at street scenes across the world. Such scenes are usually available for settled areas in developed countries and large cities in less developed countries. As Vietnam is not a developed country (often called Least Economic Developed –LED) the Street  View coverage is generally limited to the large cities such as Ho Chi Min City and Hanoi.

To use Street View just click on the little figure at the right hand bottom of the screen and drag to a location on the map in the city that you wish to view.

Remember it needs to be in the built-up area of Ho Chi Min City or Hanoi – however you will also find Street View images for Vung Tau and other places – have a play across the map to see where Street View has been developed.

 
A street in Ho Chi Min City

A street in Hanoi

Vung Tau from a building

You can also get a satellite view for many of the areas we are visiting. These images are very useful to show road networks, agriculture, settlement patterns, topography (hilly or not), water bodies (rivers/swamps etc) and generally an overview of the landscape.

Just click on the satellite box in the bottom left hand corner of the screen to turn the street map into a satellite image of the area on the screen.

 

 
I really recommend you use Google Maps and do some geography before we go – just out of interest to get an idea of the landscapes we will encounter.

Music takes one back to the time.

Image above: Photographer: Richard William Crothers. Nui Dat, South Vietnam. 1967. Young South Australian singer, Bev Harrell, performs on stage for about 1,500 diggers at the Task Force Base during the Australian Broadcasting Commission (ABC) Christmas concert.

The power of music for recollection

Last year at the briefing, Bob Kearney made a poignant statement in relation to his time in Vietnam and now. Bob said that the thing that hits him the most is when he hears the music of the time and how it takes him back there. In response, before the trip last year Elspeth Grant (teacher chaperone 2018) made a playlist of the songs of the Vietnam War period. 

The link to follow the playlist in Spotify is  https://goo.gl/Hrsvwp

 The poster for the 1987 movie 'Good Morning Vietnam'.

If you have not already done so, we suggest you watch the great 1987 movie titled ‘Good Morning Vietnam’. I know many of you would have already seen the movie but some of the scenes with the music of the time playing on the radio really gives an insight to the importance of the musical link with home for the soldiers and nurses. Robin Williams is amazing in the role of the DJ Adrian Cronauer (loosely based on the truth) and it really is one of those iconic movies from the 80’s (about the 60’s and 70’s in Vietnam).  

In relation to the list, Elspeth writes:

It’s been a pleasure curating this collection of songs to help to feel immersed in the pop culture of the Vietnam War. The idea came to me on the day when we met the Premier: Bob Kearney said it’s songs that make him recall the war, more so than the typical sound of ‘choppers’, and a lot of the prize winners introduced themselves as musos. Personally, I knew a little about Normie Rowe’s story and enjoy listening to his music.

This is the link to follow the playlist in Spotify: https://goo.gl/Hrsvwp

You may be able to download the songs to your phone before the trip, so that you can listen to them without internet access on our flights and in Vietnam. Hopefully we will also be able to connect my phone to the bus stereo to listen to them together if we want.

Photographer: David Reginald Coombe. Phuoc Tuy province. May 1969. Trooper Norman J. (Normie) Rowe of Melbourne, Vic., with nine year old Vietnamese girl, Ha Tri Van Xuyen Moc. Trooper Rowe is a member of A Squadron, 3rd Cavalry Regiment, Royal Australian Armoured Corps.

Here is a list of some of the songs I have identified for us to listen to on the trip via Spotify.

Track 1: Khe Sanh by Cold Chisel (1978)

Track 2: I Was Only 19 by Redgum (1983)

Track 3: I Was Only 19 cover by The Herd featuring John Schumann (2005)

Track 4: The Wild One by Johnny O’Keefe (1959)

Track 5: He's My Blonde‐Headed, Stompie Wompie, Real Gone Surfer Boy by Little Pattie (1963)

Track 6: Ngarra Burra Ferra from The Sapphires: Original Motion Picture Soundtrack (2012)

Track 7: It Ain’t Necessarily So by Normie Rowe and the Playboys (1965)

Track 8: Shakin’ All Over by Normie Rowe and the Playboys (1965)

Track 9: Que Sera, Sera by Normie Rowe and the Playboys (1965)

Track 10: Smiley by Ronnie Burns (1969)

Track 11: You Can’t Hurry Love by The Supremes (1966)

Track 12: Green, Green Grass of Home by Tom Jones (1967)

Track 13: We Gotta Get Out of This Place by The Animals (1965)

Track 14: I Feel Like I’m Fixin’ To Die Rag by Country Joe and the Fish (1967)

Track 15: Leaving on a Jet Plane by Peter, Paul, and Mary (1969)

Track 16: Detroit City by Bobby Bare (1963)

Track 17: Purple Haze by The Jimi Hendrix Experience (1967)

Track 18: Fortunate Son by Creedence Clearwater Revival (1969)

Track 19: (Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay by Otis Redding (1968)

Track 20: The Letter by The Box Tops (1967)

Track 21: Chain of Fools by Aretha Franklin (1967)

Track 22: Say It Loud—I’m Black and I’m Proud by James Brown (1968)

Track 23: These Boots Are Made for Walkin’ by Nancy Sinatra (1966)

Track 24: What’s Going On by Marvin Gaye (1970)

Track 25: Ring of Fire by Johnny Cash (1963)

Track 26: And When I Die by Blood, Sweat, and Tears (1969)

Track 27: My Girl by The Temptations (1965)

Track 28: Reflections of My Life by Marmalade (1969)

Track 29: The Ballad of the Green Berets by SSgt Barry Sadler (1966)

Track 31: Blowin’ in the Wind by Bob Dylan (1963)

Track 32: I Ain’t Marching Anymore by Phil Ochs (1965)

Track 33: Eve of Destruction by Barry McGuire (1965)

Track 34: Lyndon Johnson Told the Nation by Tom Paxton (1965)

Track 35: Waist Deep in the Big Muddy by Pete Seeger (1967)

Track 36: Alice’s Restaurant Massacree by Arlo Guthrie (1967)

Track 37: Backlash Blues by Nina Simone (1967)

Track 38: Saigon Bride by Joan Baez (1967)

Track 39: Handsome Johnny by Richie Havens (1967)

Track 40: 2+2=? by The Bob Seger System (1968)

Track 41: Imagine by John Lennon (1971)

Track 42: Vietnam by Jimmy Cliff (1970)

Track 43: Ohio by Crosby, Stills, Nash, & Young (1970)

Track 44: War by Edwin Starr (1970)

Elspeth also recommends:

The Vietnam War: A Film by Ken Burns and Lynn Novick (2017)
The Soundtrack: Original Score by Trent Reznor and Atticus Ross
Music by The Silkroad Ensemble with Yo‐Yo Ma
Available on Spotify

Have you heard of John McCain?

Image above: John McCain (1936 - 25 August 2018) War hero and politician.

 A link to our days in Hanoi

In the news last year (25 August, 2018) I am sure you would have read about Senator John McCain and his death. John McCain was an outstanding US politician for many years in the American Senate and in recent years he was one of the most outspoken critics of President Trump.  What is the link with our trip I hear you say?

Senator John McCain was a US Navy pilot in the Vietnam War and was shot down over Hanoi in October 1967 (in one of the lakes in Hanoi). With both arms and left leg severely fractured he inflated his life vest using his teeth - these were lifelong injuries. He was then dragged from the lake and beaten before being taken for interrogation. 

Image above: Senator John McCain is pulled out of a Hanoi lake by North Vietnamese army soldiers and civilians on Oct. 26, 1967.


Only after the North Vietnamese found out that his father (as was his Grandfather) was an Admiral in the US Navy did he receive treatment and care. In fact, his father was named Commander-in-Chief, Pacific Command whilst John McCain was in solitary confinement. He was taken prisoner and endured 5 years in the infamous Hilton prison that we visit on our last day in Hanoi.  This prison is often referred to as the "Hanoi Hilton" - an example of black humour, it is a horrible place as you will see.

Image above: The prison we visit in Hanoi where John McCain spent 5 years years, two in solitary confinement. 

The display we see in the prison depicts the prison as some sort of happy resort for prisoners - not the case at all! When pressed for information and names of his fellow service members, McCain instead gave them the names of the Green Bay Packers’ offensive line. One must admire his grit during this time because the North Vietnamese offered McCain to be released ahead of other prisoners, in an attempt to show the world that they were merciful, and also to prove to other prisoners that high-ranking officials would always receive preferential treatment. Staying true to the military Code of Conduct, McCain refused the special treatment, and as a result, was severely beaten for several years for declining the offer. He was finally released on March 14, 1973. 

Image above: Receiving a medal from President Nixon after his release from the Hanoi prison in 1973

He is certainly considered a war hero due the way he dealt with his terrible imprisonment over a long period - his service before 1967 is quite a read as well.

Image above: Lieutenant McCain (front right) with his squadron and T-2 Buckeye trainer, 1965

As a measure of the man, in 2000 as a Senator in the US Government John McCain returned to Vietnam and visited the lake he crashed into and the prison he was incarcerated. Over the years he became a strong advocate for normalising ties between Communist Vietnam and the United States.  During his visit in 2000 he said:

"I put the Vietnam War behind me a long time ago," he said. "I harbor no anger, no rancor."

John McCain retired as a Captain in the US Navy in 1981. In civilian life John McCain was elected to the US House of Representatives in 1982 and then the US Senate in 1987. Although a Republican and conservative in nature, McCain gained a reputation for being outspoken, often disagreeing with his party on a variety of issues. In 2008 he ran for the US Presidency and was defeated by Barrack Obama - after that he continued to serve as a Senator until his death. Click here to see the copious legislative reforms he was involved in during his 36 years as a serving politician. In fact, in 2017 he struggled into the Senate after punishing treatment for his brain cancer (2 weeks after the operation) to vote against the attempts by the Trump Government to get rid of the health care (Obamacare) brought in by President Obama.

Regardless of your politics, John McCain must be admired as a war hero, man of principle and servant of the people as a politician. He certainly did not deserve Donald Trump saying during the 2015 Presidential campaign about John McCain that:

“He’s not a war hero. He’s a war hero because he was captured. I like people who weren’t captured.” 

Read what you can about this amazing man - it will make your visit to the "Hanoi Hilton" on 10 October even more poignant and meaningful.

Vale John McCain